JOHN LYONS

JOHN LYONS: The Calm Down Cue
by, John Lyons --- EQUUS, October 1997

This discussion was sent to me via e-mail. I thought that everyone reading HORSE Source on line! could benefit from reading it. ENJOY!!!

Five Keys to Successful Training by John Lyons, with Sushil Deuali Wenholz I will paraphrase the introduction:
There are three examples ... a horse that won't stand still for the farrier, a horse that no matter what pace the rider sets, as soon as a trail-mate picks up a canter, he's off like a rocket, and a pleasure horse that spooks in the show ring at the ringside distractions.

Despite the different circumstances, they all are horses that are not responsive to the handlers signal or "cue." They are not disobedient, they simply don't understand what is being asked of them; there's something missing in their training. Once the handlers understand that this is a communication gap, they can see the situation not as a problem but as a opportunity to train their horses to a higher level.

1. FOCUS ON TRAINING, NOT TROUBLE

Start any training session by understanding that you are constantly teaching your horse - every time you are around him, he is learning from you. Your attitude and approach to handling any given situation make all the difference in the world.
Unfortunately, the habit of focusing on problems rather than solutions is deeply ingrained in human nature. If you see something as a problem, you will be confrontational, and you and your horse will work against each other as foes. With this attitude, any action you take will be counterproductive and may do more damage than good. When you see a challenging situation as an opportunity, you become non-confrontational, and you and your horse no longer oppose each other; you partner up. When you concentrate on what you want your horse to do, you'll discover that he does less of what you don't want him to do. You are no longer trying to un-train bad habits, but are now improving on good habits.

2. UNDERSTAND YOUR HORSE

When a horse becomes distracted, he's exhibiting a perfectly normal and honest equine reaction. He's not trying to get out of work, nor has he launched a personal attack on you. He is simply uncomfortable with the situation at hand. The horse on the trail being left behind is concerned that he might not see his buddy again (herd instinct). We can't expect our horses not to have these natural instincts, but we can teach our horses to perform despite them.
Inflicting pain on a horse as punishment may stop what he's doing this moment, but it does not contribute to his greater understanding. My method is based on what the horse is really looking for and can understand - the release from pressure. That is the principle of every cue I give him. By my definition, the work "cue" means a signal-taught through a specific training process, and given by the rider to the horse-to which the horse responds immediately with a specific behavior, on time and 100 percent of the time. The basic idea of a cue is that it is a mild aggravation rather than a pain or a punishment.

3. IDENTIFY THE TRAINING GAP

Through incomplete teaching, the horses in the examples have learned not to pay attention to the cues when more interesting or frightening things are taking place. To identify the gap in your horse's training, start by analyzing his actions, as well as your own, to see where communication broke down. What were you asking him to do when he got distracted? Your answer to that question identifies the incomplete or inconsistent cue. Now you must work on improving it.

4. COMMUNICATE CLEARLY

Find a point where your horse will listen to your cue. Have a simple goal "my horse's performance will improve, even if it's just to a small degree." You'll see steady progress while preventing burnout. Once your horse begins responding in a small way, increase the "excitement" - distance for the trail horse, distractions in the show ring, etc. Practice these at home.

5. CREATE A WIN-WIN SITUATION

When horses response correctly to a cue they are are experiencing release from tension and pressure. There is no confrontation, no anxiety or apprehension. Handler and horse communicate perfectly. Their partnership blossoms, and everyone wins.

TEACHING THE CALM-DOWN CUE

There is nothing more dangerous (or harder to handle) than an excited, out-of-control equine. Yet most riders' bag of training techniques doesn't inclue a fast, easy way to relax a hyped-up horse. Many trainers recommend circling, but it is not a universally successful method, and it leaves plenty of time to get hurt. There is only one calming method I know that works consistently-the cue for your horse to lower his head. When a horse is excited, his head and neck come up and his muscles get tense. But when his head is down by his knees, he can't jig or rear and his whole body relaxes; it's a physiological response. When you teach your horse to put his head down on cue, he learns that the world looks better from that vantage point. This makes such an impact that some horses actually learn to calm themselves by lowering their own heads when they feel excited or nervous.
To teach the basic calm-down cue, you'll need a mild snaffle bit and a controlled environment (such as a round pen) in which to practice. Start on horseback, with your horse relaxed and standing still, and then follow these steps:

1. APPLY PRESSURE AND RELEASE

Take up one rein only, applying light pressure on the bit. Expect your horse to raise his head (a natural response), but maintain your light contact when he does. Seeking release from the pressure, he'll soon drop his head. When he does, even if it's just by a half-inch, reward him by releasing the rein pressure and patting him.

2. REPREAT THE REQUEST

When you release the rein pressure, expect your horse to raise his head again. That's OK. At this stage, you just want him to drop his head in response to pressure. To teach him to do this consistently, repeat Step 1 until your horse responds immediately to your lifted rein by lowering his head that first half-inch.

3. KEEP HIS HEAD DOWN

Once your horse has mastered the initial drop, teach him to keep his head down. Start by asking him to lower his head. But this time, when he brings it up, immediately apply pressure on the rein, releasing it only when he lowers his head again. Repeat this step until he learns to leave his head in the dropped position, even after you release the pressure.

4. TAKE HIS HEAD LOWER

Now you can teach your horse to drop his head to progressively lower levels. Starting from his original dropped position, apply rein pressure, asking him to drop his head another half-inch or so. Repeat until he consistently drops his head to the new, lower level. Then start again, asking him to lower his head another notch. Continue this step, working in approximately one-half inch increments until his nose is near the ground. (Note: The last six inches are the hardest.)

5. PERFECT THE MOVE

Practice at the halt until your horse drops his head to the ground as soon as you lift a rein. When you feel him actively pull his head down those last few inches, you'll know that you've changed his mind-set. He now thinks that he wants his head down, not up, when you put pressure on the bit.

6. TEACH THE OPPOSITE REIN

Once your horse has learned the cue with one rein, start the process over again with the opposite rein, until he responds readily to your command, regardless of which rein you lift.

Once your horse is responsive to the calm-down cue from either rein, raise the distraction level. Teach him to respond to the cue at the walk, the jog, and, ultimately, the lope. Get him excited (which you can do by adding speed to any gait), and then calm him down, using this cue. By practicing at home, in a controlled environment, you can safely prepare for the raised adrenaline and distraction levels you and your horse will fact on the trail, in the showring, or in any other high-stress situation.

MORE CALM-DOWN APPLICATIONS

The calm-down cue has uses beyond its safety-valve function. For example, you can adjust your horse's headset by putting the process in reverse - teaching him to bring his head back up when you apply pressure. With his head lowered, just pick up your rein and hold it. Your horse will put his head down farther, looking for the release, but when there is no release, he'll bring his head up. That's when you give him his reward and release the pressure. Although it might sound confusing to us, it makes sense to the horse. He learns to go toward the release- and you can change the direction of that release in seconds. By controlling headset, you can better control your horse's balance and frame as well.
You can also improve your horse's ground manners by teaching him to respond to the calm-down cue from the ground, using either reins or a lead rope and following the steps above. The only difference is that you apply downward pressure to the reins or leadline while you're standing. This is a very important technique for training your horse not to rear, or teaching him how to stand tied. It's also helpful in teaching your horse to put his head down for bridling, clipping or bathing. - John Lyons